Wednesday, November 11, 2015

FLUIDS CHANGE

To start off, oil changes are pretty simple. The Guzzi has three of them, but they are still within the reach of most people. These steps will walk you through the CARC, Transmission, and Engine. Make sure you take the bike on a nice ride to get all three oils fairly hot so they flow well into a drain pan.

CARC OIL
The CARC is the shaft drive oil end. This is suggested to be serviced around every 6000 miles. First step- locate some 80W-90 gear oil. I use the suggested ENI 80W-90, but this isn't anything special and can be any that meets spec (just about all of them). Check your owners manual-
AGIP GEAR SAE 80 W 90 (AGIP is now ENI)
Specifications: API GL-4

Clean the filler before you open it...compressed air works well, brake cleaner if it is grungy:

The drain plug is located under the CARC and can be removed with a 17mm wrench. It is inconviently adjacent to a plastic brake line clip and may require an open end wrench. Inspect the drain plug magnet for anything that may require close inspection. Some fuzz or small metal bits is normal, large chunks or increasing levels of junk is problematic.  

GEARBOX OIL
The gearbox (transmission) is also simple and changed every 6000 miles. 
Large hex for the filler shown removed here, and the same 17mm drain plug being pointed at below with the pick tool. The oil will drain all over the center stand bracket...I usually just clean it up later as it usually takes less time than rigging up something to prevent that from occurring. 
Inspect/clean the magnet again.

The oil specified is ENI 85W-90... Why not just use the 80-90 of the CARC? The specs are slightly different and I just do as I'm told... Any API GL-5 spec should do.
AGIP GEAR MG/S SAE 85 W-90 (AGIP is now ENI)
Specifications: API GL-5

Filling the gearbox isn't fun without a special funnel. I don't have one of those, so I use an old school oil can. It helps to prevent adding too much and covering your work bench with expensive ENI oil...


 ENGINE OIL
Engine oil is like any other bike. Drain, replace filter, refill...every 6000 miles.
Drain oil, inspect and clean magnet. Compressing the rear suspension or putting the bike on the center stand while weighing the rear can help clear out the oil pan faster.

The correct tools are helpful when the oil filter is recessed up in the oil pan. Buying a filter wrench like this one from MG cycle is helpful (LINKY). It's $9...you need one.

Fish out all the plugs and wrenches out of the drain pan...

I always check the oil filter base for any left behind o-rings or other funk that shouldn't be up there. It's a good time to clean the oil pan around the filter. A mirror helps.

I always fill the filter with oil and use some of it to film the gasket. You rarely have to top off the oil when you do this.

Pull the dip stick, use a 1" socket to remove the dip stick plug. This makes filling the engine oil MUCH easier. 

Filling the engine oil is easy with an extended funnel. The crash bars are somewhat in the way, but it takes longer to remove them than just taking your time. It is very important to use the suggested 10W-60 oil suggested by Guzzi. This is an air cooled bike that runs hot.
ENI i-RIDE PG RACING 10W-60
SAE 10W - 60. As an alternative to recommended fluids, use top branded oils with performances that meet or exceed the
requirements of CCMC G-4 API. SG specifications.

Oil Filter: UFI  2328700 (LINKY)
ENI 10W-60 by the case (LINKY)
ENI 10W-60 by the liter (LINKY)
ENI 80W-90 by the liter (LINKY)
ENI 85W-90 by the liter (LINKY)


2 comments:

  1. Thank you for the useful and easy to follow information. I just used same engine oil, but 10-50. It was all I could find.

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    Replies
    1. 10W-60 by the case:
      https://www.motocarr.com/products/eni-agip-i-ride-motogp-10w-60-motorcycle-oil-case-12-1l-bottles

      10W-60 by the liter:
      http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=7320

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