Monday, July 13, 2015


Somewhat common issue that some NTX owners are finding- blowing out exhaust gaskets on the connection to the cross over pipe. 

Due to the engine vibration and heat cycling of the pipes, all owners should be prepared to deal with this, usually at the worst time. Running with a blown gasket isn't a problem short term, but the noise is not always pleasant to the rider or people around the motorcycle.  Getting in front of this is best handled by checking the two crossover clamps on a regular basis as well as the crossover to muffler clamp. The two joints in the first photo are the most problematic.

Parts needed:
Exhaust Gasket (Cross over x2) Guzzi #GU06123500
AF1 racing ($26)
MG cycle ($23)
Kawasaki part will also work ($12)- #11060-1330

Exhaust Gasket (Head to pipe x2- not usually needed) Guzzi #976376
AF1 racing ($6)

Exhuast Gasket (Cross over to Muffler x1- not usually needed) Guzzi #GU05128230
AF1 racing ($40)

MG cycle ($39)

Below is viewed after you are aware of the problem. The problem begins fairly quickly (noise) and the gasket will be gone in less than a mile of riding.

The gasket is not found after pulling the pipe apart. 
The right side gasket was this problem. This procedure can be used for both sides.
Remove O2 sensor- This will make getting the pipe fully out much easier. Follow the connector from the O2 sensor, unplug connector, re-route wire, and remove from head pipe.

Remove the two nuts/washers that retain the headpipe. Be careful not to damage the head exhaust gasket by pulling straight out. Be careful not to damage the gasket on the studs or frame.

The cleaned up pipe, O2 sensor removed, and new gasket. The cross over pipe may need to have the female section opened up to allow the gasket to fit. I used an adjustable wrench to carefully open up all four flanges evenly. The gasket should slip in with little drama. The clamp should go on next prior to placing the pipe back in. 

Get everything in line, tighten the head retainer (make sure the retainer is in the correct direction- see other side), and tighten the exhaust clamp last. Place the O2 sensor back in place, re-route the wire, replace connector, and replace any tie-wraps that were removed. The O2 wire runs by some suspension parts, so be aware of any interference. 

Saturday, March 15, 2014

Replacement locks for top and side cases

The locks that come standard on the SWM cases (Guzzi standard equipment) are quite bad. These are single bit (single sided) type that have been upgraded to a newer double bit type. The locks are MUCH easier to open and now I have one key that operates the side and top cases.

Thanks to Peter Y for the tip on Wild Guzzi

Twisted Throttle (US importer of SWM equipment) sells an upgraded lock type for the Guzzi side cases. Part number ALK.00.165.16302 for the 6 lock set (including topcase). 

The photos on the web page show the older type, but the upgraded units are what I received. $26 +shipping includes 2 keys, new retention clips, and 6 locks:

Easy to install by prying the old clips off, inserting new lock, and re-inserting the clips.

Old keys/locks on the left, new double bit keys and locks on the right. Major improvement.

The update latch style is shown below and the updated locks should be able to be used as-is:

Owners of the older style latches shown below have mentioned that transferring the older dog-legged 'latch' from the original locks to the new was required for proper operation, but do function once performed:

Saturday, November 2, 2013

Big bikes hit the scale

Factory claimed weights can be all over the place...a lot of them can be flat out lies. Checking the bike on a scale usually puts perspective on actual bike heft. Scale is correct with my own weight alone and on each bike (when subtracted from total).

Scale is a truck trailer type. 
Scale rounds to the nearest 10 lbs. 

First up, 2008 KTM 990 ADV. The bike is stock with the following items added: Touratech skid plate, stainless rear rack, Touratech GPS mount with Garmin GPS, rear plate replaced with Pelican case with tire repair kit and mini air compressor. Factory tool kit on board with one or two additional tools. Front tube hidden in faring. Hepco-Becker crash bars and rear rack. PIAA aux lamps mounted to crash bars. Handle bars on ROX risers and filled with lead shot. KTM tank bag mounted, but only rain cover in it.
Tanks filled just prior to getting on the scale.
Weight as described- 570lbs.

Next up, 2013 Moto Guzzi Stelvio NTX. The bike is stock with all equipment as delivered except the side cases (racks, crash bars, skid plate, aux lamps). Item added: Touratech GPS mount with XM antenna, Wunderlich windshield extension. Factory tool kit and tire repair kit with mini air compressor. Tank bag installed, but empty. 
Tank filled just prior to getting on the scale.
Weight as described- 660lbs.

Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Revised cross bar for Enduro Engineering mount

The basic Enduro Engineering GPS mount works very well for mounting the Touratech cradle. The bar diameter makes mounting other items a slight challenge without a lot of bulk.

Existing mount with Touratech cradle:

 DSLR camera rigs use clamps for 15mm rod diameters. These clams are cheap and offer 1/4x20 threaded sockets that a RAM ball can be mounted in. New 15mm rod from machined to match Enduro Engineering's stock rod:

DSLR clamp hardware parts were powder coated black to help prevent corrosion.

New crossbar in place with clamps and RAM mount:

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Revised rear rack for SWM topcase

The cases for the NTX are made by SW mototech. The factory topcase is difficult to obtain and is identical to the standard SWM case offered HERE

The case attachement is by the universal plate below. This plate uses clamps to hold it to the factory rack. The slots and holes in this plate do not line up with the factory rack holes very well:
A revised version of my original plate in a previous blog post is shown below with holes for topcase mounting:

The topcase latch required the removal of the center bent tab while still allowing the rack to be used as a tie down point when the box is removed. Rack mounted to the motorcycle after the factory plastic cover has been removed: 

Topcase mounted:

A possible change will be to mount an alternate set of holes allowing the plate to be moved slightly rearward to allow more room for a rear rider. A backrest pad is the next to be added.

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Factory bag liners

The factory bags used to have an issue with leaking. The Trax EVO versions with a revised top gasket help prevent leakage. Instead of lugging the side case around, these liners help manage your gear.

Factory liners are shown here (and cost $200):

The alternate solution is to buy the 37L bag liners for the Trax bags from SW Mototech. SWM made the factory bags, so the other items sold will work with them. SWM includes these bags with the sale of the cases, so I had to order these special from Twisted Throttle. They took 6 weeks to get, but only cost $30 each ($60 total). Part number to order (you must call TT to get these on order as they are not on the web page):

Bag loaded with some gear. The bags hold the shape and will not require them to be stuffed into the cases. Major bonus.

The liners inside the bag. There is some space to allow storage of other gear. Velcro top with the standard dry bag clips to keep everything from unrolling:

There is 3-4 inches of space depending on how the bags are loaded. Enough for a pair of shoes or something else you don't want to funk up your clothes:

Another SWM item from Twisted Throttle that works with the factory luggage if hauling a dirty case is in your future:

My dog approves of this blog, as you can tell from her total lack of interest in something she cannot ride in/on:

Wolfman Large Expedition tank bag

Tank bags for the NTX can be a bit of a chore due to the high gas filler and quick slope back to the seat. The Wolfman expedition series is great weatherproof gear. The tank bag is no exception.

The bag fits the lines of the bike quite well. Not overly wide, tall, or bulky. The 4 point connection system is excellent at keeping the bag from moving around.

The points I used to secure the bag were the front of the tank near the steering head. There is a space in the frame directly in front of the tank mounting bolt. Wrapping the straps per the instructions works great.

The rear requires removing the seat and wrapping the straps in front of the seat blocks. The seat hides the straps once in place. The straps front and back can be cut down about 6" on each of the four. The 'keeper' cross straps are not needed. The mounting system works fine without them (and they are loose all the time).

Bag opened up, inner cover left pulled back:

Inner cover in place, bag draw string pulled tight, and binder strap pulled tight:

Top cover lowered in place with snaps keeping it closed. The steering lock is shown below to avoid dealing with interference with wider tank bags:

Rider point of view...I'm 6' tall and can clearly see my GPS at all times. This is a perfect tank bag for me...doesn't require a rain cover and just works. Highly suggested.